Dalma and Ghagha Islands
Dalma and Ghagha Islands stand out as the most well-known ones in the Abu Dhabi Emirate. Their location and history are of explicit value for pre-Islamic and Islamic history. Today, Dalma Island is viewed as one of the best places for farming in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi. It is rather remote but densely populated. Ghagha Island is considered one of the most significant areas in the Abu Dhabi Emirate due to the archeological discoveries that have revealed numerous artifacts valuable for world history. Both islands have a rich history, which is mostly reflected in today’s buildings and architectural solutions. The following research will focus on a historical overview of the main buildings and events related to Dalma and Ghagha Islands to explain how they have become of outstanding places in Abu Dhabi history and the major bearers of archeological heritage.
Dalma Island: Location and Brief History
Dalma Island is situated to the west of the Abu Dhabi Emirate, about 42 km Northwest of Al-Dhannan Mount in the sea and 250 km from Abu Dhabi with 33 square km of total area (“History”, n.d.). It is the most populated island of the Emirate, and its people are mainly of the mainland tribes and hawala Arabs origin (King, 2004b). The capital town is also called Dalma. On its territory, the settlement has existed since the Late Stone Age (King, 2004b). According to the official data, the first tribes appeared on the territory in approximately the 7th century AD (“History”, n.d.). The territory’s peculiarities are palm houses spread around the island and wide popularity of pearl trade since local inhabitants find pearls at the seabed (“History”, n.d.). Due to the development of the pearl industry, there exist records proving that the regular markets were organized for merchants who had come from extremely distant places like India to buy pearls (“History”, n.d.). Apart from pearls, during archaeological researches, the remnants of ceramic had been found. Moreover, the Abu Dhabi Islands Archaeological Survey results revealed numerous “graveyards surrounded by regular walled compound” (“Dalma”, 2003). The wells, stone buildings, pottery scatters of the Islamic period of 7-12 AD were found (“Dalma”, 2003).
The Mosques of Dalma and Pearl Merchant’s House Bayt al-Muraykhi
The 1992 research conducted by the ADIAS discovered three mosques, the al-Dawsari mosque, the Said Ali al-Muhannadi mosque, then Muhammad b. Jasim al-Muraykhi mosque and the Bayt al-Muraykhi pearl-house.
Muhammad b. Jasim al-Muraykhi Mosque was abandoned, when it was researched in 1992, afterward it has been restored and turned into a museum (King, 2004b). It was made of “beach-stone and coral and painted pale green on the exterior”, however, “white with cement repairs in the inside”, raised 1m above the present level ground (King, 2004b). The platform is believed to serve as protection from rising rainwater (King, 2004b). The general construction plan reminds of the style used during the Umayyad dynasty period; hence, the matter of tribal origin is also important as it suggests the influence of the Iranian, especially the design of mihrab (King, 2004b).
Another mosque, the Al-Dawsari, is situated to the north of the al-Muhannadi mosque. By the time of the 1992 research, it was not used. Made of “beach-rock, coral and gypsum mortar”, in 1991 it faced some repair with the use of cement (King, 2004b). This mosque’s interior designing solutions are diverse: three wooden doors of different designs, windows with “round-headed arches”, unlike the doorways and the mihrab in the center of qilba wall of rectangular form from the outside (King, 2004b).
Unlike two of the above-mentioned mosques, the Said b. Ali al-Muhhanadi mosque was still in use in 1992, with a great number of people currently attending it. This mosque is the largest of the three. However, it is also constructed of beach rock and coral, and is whitewashed inside out (King, 2004b). Its interior is somewhat similar, especially, the mihrab’s rectangular projection from the external view, to the al-Dawsary mosque (King, 2004b).
The Bayt al-Muraykhi is situated in the central part of the Dalma town and it can be found in a pearl merchant’s house, built by Muhammad b. Jasim al-Muraykhi (King, 2004a). When first visited by the ADIAS, the mosque was right in the middle of a huge garden; hence, it was practically impossible to take any photos of it from distant places. At the time of the expedition’s visit, some constructions such as the floor were close to collapsing (King, 2004b). After a thorough investigation, the house is called to be the only building of commercial purpose ever recorded in the Gulf (King, 2004b). After the immediate restorations made by the Abu Dhabi government, the mosque became a museum where numerous archaeological findings of pottery, some elements from the mosques as well as remnants of early tribes settlements are placed.
As a representative of the al Quasi family, I cannot but mention the role of this family as the oldest representative of the traditional trades. Such trades were pearl diving and fishing. Nowadays, the family business has changed as well as the life on the island to make al Quasi and particularly H.E. Khadem Abdulla Al Qubaisi involved in the oil business (Chang, 2009). While many young people refuse to follow such traditional trades, Desert Islands Resort and Spa should become good means for the island to provide the population with employment opportunities. Hence, with the world changes, the traditions on the island change as well.
Thus, the house and the mosques of Dalma are included in those few examples of Islamic architecture belonging to the traditional style of the culture. Perhaps, owing to the island’s remote location, they could be discovered in more or less proper conditions and could be restored to tell the history of the territory itself and its population.
The Ghagha Island Location and Its Major Researches
Ghagha is located in the western part of the Abu Dhabi Emirate to the northwest of Ras Ghumays, the westernmost promontory in the Sia peninsula (“Ghagha”, n.d.). The island is the biggest out of Jaza’ir Ghagha’s group and is one most often researched ones. The major reason for that is its lifeline that comprises of numerous discoveries explaining its historical and cultural development (King & Tonghini, 1999).
The first archaeological discoveries took place back in the 1950s. From 1991 to 2006, the Abu Dhabi Islands Archaeological Survey (ADIAS) has made and published numerous researches on the early history of the island as a part of the emirate. The undertaken survey has also revealed a wide picture of the island’s development within pre-Islamic and Islamic periods as far as its exploration started when the islands still “remained largely undisturbed” (King & Tonghimi, 1999). Thus, the early interest in its history helped to preserve the sites researched. Moreover, their remoteness and limitations on access to them have greatly contributed to “sites integrity” (King & Tonghimi, 1999).
Starting from 2006, the Abu Dhabi Authority for Culture and Heritage (ADACH) sets up and supports all project valuable from historical, cultural, and archaeological points of view; moreover, it conducts numerous surveys in the UAE and cooperates with archaeological teams from different universities all over the world (“Archaeological Sites”, 2013). The main source of financing the expeditions and publicizing the results were the national oil companies together with the world multinational corporations (“Archaeological Sites”, 2013).
Early archaeological discoveries of ancient cultures and settlements of the Ghagha Island took place a century ago, but this information is still valuable. The first mentions of the group of Ghagha’s neighboring islands in the literary sources emerged in the 19th century when the hydrographic surveys by the East India Navy were conducted. Captain R. Taylor referred to the 1818 survey of Ghagha and the Yasat Islands to the east to create the basis for further settlement research (King & Tonghini, 1999). The 1958 exploration results provided evidence of a settlement from the second half of the 3rd millennium BC. However, later researches have shown that some settlements could be traced back to 6000-3200 BC (“Archaeological Sites”, 2013).
The more extensive work was undertaken in 1994, prior to which in 1993, some preliminary steps of researching the territories were made. According to ADIAS results, over 40 settlements remains were identified. They were located along the south coastal line and through the center of the island (King & Tonghimi, 1999). The archaeologists managed to single out peculiarities supporting the idea of why this or that site had become a choice of early settlers. Among those, one should primarily emphasize topographic peculiarities, access to water or other resources, etc.
The discovered Ghagha settlements may date back to pre-Islamic as well as Islamic times. Hence, the two major sites of the pre-Islamic period were explored in the center and on the south coast. The central settlements provided the researchers the examples of the pottery scatters and with some unidentified remains of a similar structure. The second, for instance, was dated as co-existing with later Islamic houses. These remains of ceramics and fine glass were of 3-4 century AD origin (King & Tonghlini, 1999). Further discoveries showed numerous “rectilinear stone tanks” along the ridge and a number of channels dug (King et al., 1995). The scientists came up with the conclusion the purpose of the stone tanks was “to catch and store rainfall” (King et al., 1995). According to the ADIAS research, it was found out that the channels were constructed manually to provide plantation territories with water. For such manually-built systems, the tanks were put over the channels (King et al., 1995). Such an irrigation net demands huge efforts and instant control, hence, it may be assumed that the settlements were permanent at these territories.
The ceramics found witnesses the main occupations of the “late Parthian, Sasanian and Late Islamic periods” (King et al., 1995). Hence, the island might have had its pottery producing wares. There were also discovered a number of fish traps similar to findings from other islands of the Abu Dhabi coastline. Moreover, the development of that time building and construction knowledge is of great value along with the crafts items, including ceramics and fine glass from different neighboring regions, which also shows the developed trade system with Mesopotamia, Persia, China.
Reconnaissance of Ghagha: Supporting ADIAS Results
In November 2012, the Archaeological Prospection Services of the University of Southampton (APSS) and the Maritime Archaeology Stewardship Trust (MAST) accompanied by Abu Dhabi Tourism and Culture Authority (TCA Abu Dhabi) conducted a survey of geophysical peculiarities of the islands (Strutt, Beech, Blue, & Sheehan, 2013). The very archaeological reconnaissance proves the existence of pre-oil era villages, abandoned approximately in the 1960s. However, the remains are still visible on the island. It is densely covered with middens, cemeteries, mosques, and cairns (Strutt et al., 2013).
The magnetometry and Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) applied to the survey were based on the analysis of the geological peculiarities of the particular area (Strutt et al., 2013). The accurate measurements have been also supported by the GPS data that provided the typology of archaeological features of both buildings and natural deposits. According to the research, the features of the buildings, house platforms, and courtyards remained in rather a good condition to use magnetometry for obtaining better results on island history (Strutt et al., 2013).
The group of scientists based the research on dividing Ghagha Island into several parts for a deeper understanding of the settlements’ order and human activity. For instance, the north-west part has signs of something similar to a “series of hut circles overlooking a small bay” (Strutt et al., 2013). The north-central part of the island comprises of three small building platforms of rectangular form and is what might have remained from a farm or some similar habitation (Strutt et al., 2013). The most interesting building remains on the territory were courtyards and a series of small stones that very likely to be a cemetery or simply some markers. In such a way, one can see that the history of this island remains a mystery for the archeologists and Abu Dhabi inhabitants.
Modern Life of the Islands
Nowadays, the Abu Dhabi government aims at turning Dalma into one of the region’s top tourist destinations by investing millions of dirhams into islands development and restructuring (“ADACH Restores”, 2011). It is one among few settlements located in rather a remote area and might be of interest to those who are interested to have rest somewhere out of easy reach. According to the governmental program, the new dock at the island harbor is to be constructed, building a three-storied shopping complex including malls, a cinema, and other entertainment facilities. Moreover, the local hospital should also undergo numerous reestablishments and renovations (“ADACH Restores”, 2011).
The Abu Dhabi Authority for Culture and Heritage (ADACH) is still working on improving the conditions of the four most significant buildings on the island (“ADACH Restores”, 2011). Despite the problems with construction, termites, and the humid environment, ADACH is very positive about the forthcoming renovations. Hence, different possible precautions are taken not to ruin the architectural sites: building a new drainage system, repairing the facades, ceilings as well as “dealing with termites (“ADACH Restores”, 2011).
Another evidence of the destination’s importance is revealed through means by which one can get to it: one can choose to travel there by ferry and spend only two hours or get faster by plane. However, the transportation schedule is under the strict control of the Desert Islands Abu Dhabi Government (“Dalma Island”, 2013). Hence, it is up to the tourists which way to choose to cover the 250 km way to Dalma. Nevertheless, it is rather exciting to take the ferry trip, observe all the beauty of marine voyage, and submerge oneself into the ancient atmosphere of the island.
As for the Ghagha Island, its attractions to tourists as well as the effort of the government to re-build some historical landmarks are less significant. The island is a small lagoon that is mostly visited by fishermen rather than tourists (“ADACH Restores”, 2011). The geographical position still makes Ghagha Island the central basin accumulating water and fascinating the visitors with magnificent nature. As a result, in contrast to Dalma with its ancient mosques, the main places of interest in Ghagha are the parks.
Conclusion
The researches show that both islands have played a great role in the development of Adu Dhabi and still stay the popular historical centers. Dalma Island, or the Pearl Island, is the most populated island of the Abu Dhabi Emirate. According to the numerous surveys and records, the first settlements appeared on its territory in the 7th century AD. Its importance is viewed through several points: location, archaeological discoveries, and landmarks. The mosques of Dalma, as well as the merchant’s house with the flow of time faced, like elsewhere in the world, were repaired and changed. These changes, perhaps not always proper, however, let the world learn about the existing culture even in such distant places. Promotion of the local culture is of the utmost importance and the forthcoming improvements will only be a plus to achieve this aim.
The archaeological discoveries of Ghagha Island have revealed its historical significance to the UAE cultural and archaeological heritage. Evidence of the lives of early residents and their crafts has been presented. Modern surveys show how the late 20th-century researches have influenced the preservation of archaeological sites. All these data altogether proved the existence of settlements, and, due to buildings remain, and general distributions of natural resources the information was obtained and analyzed. The APSS, MAST and TCA Abu Dhabi’s reconnaissance explored less accessible parts of the island not so thoroughly researched. They supported the ADIAS research results by adding updates provided by satellite images and geophysical surveys. The GPR and magnetometry data have greatly contributed to the settlements’ remains on the Ghagha Island, especially about some smaller remnants not so much investigated by ADIAS’s team. However, their contribution to the topic is enormous and cannot be overestimated. It provided a huge basis for further researches not only for Ghagha Island but also for the Abu Dhabi Emirates in general.
